Doi Suthep (15 Kilometers from the city center)
Doi (Mount) Suthep is a constant part of life in Chiang Mai.
This regal mountain overlooks the city from the northwest,
providing commanding views from its summit. Aside from its
dominating presence on the horizon, Doi Suthep is the home
of some of the most deeply loved symbols in the Kingdom. In1981
Doi Suthep, Doi Pui and Doi Buakha, along with the 161 square
kilometers (62 square miles) of forest in which they are located,
became Thailand’s 24th national park. A year later a
100 square kilometer (38 square mile) annex was added, bringing
the park’s total area up to 261 square kilometers (100
square miles). Dense forests hang from the mountain’s
shoulders like a cloak; deciduous at lower elevations and
evergreen near the peaks of the mountains. The highest peak
in the park is Doi Pui which tops off at 1,685 meters (5,528
feet), making it the eighth largest mountain in Thailand.
Flowing from these heights are some of the most impressive
waterfalls in the Kingdom’s northern reaches. Mae Sa
falls, Huay Kaew falls and Monthathan falls are among the
most popular sights of the park and are easily accessible
from the main road. The forest is also home to a variety of
wildlife, including many small mammals and birds as well as
the rare Crocodile Salamander, which is only found in four
places in Thailand.
The park’s high elevation keeps the temperature pleasantly
cool, even during the blistering heat of June. Doi Suthep
National Park also incorporates the Mae Sa Valley, a veritable
buffet of activities and sights. Farther north, in the park’s
100 square kilometer (38 square mile) annex you will find
the delightful and often overlooked Mok Fa area which boasts
a wonderful waterfall, a cave and a nature trail. Despite
all of this stunning natural beauty, the main reason many
visitors come to Doi Suthep National Park is Wat Phra That
Doi Suthep, a venerable and venerated temple that is one of
the most holy Buddhist sites in Thailand. Wat Phra That Doi
Suthep is a major pilgrimage destination, especially during
the Buddhist holidays of Makha Bucha and Visakha Bucha (Feb
13th andMay 11th respectively). This awe-inspiring temple
is crowned by an elaborate Chedi (Monument), 24 meters (79
feet) tall and gold plated from top to bottom.
On a clear day the Chedi’s golden exterior catches the
sun and blazes like a beacon over the city. The temple dates
back to the 14th century and the tale of its founding is a
quintessential Thai myth, full of magic and mystery. Those
moved by the serenity and spirituality of the temple may wish
to take a meditation course at the International Buddhism
Center located on the temple grounds. Adding to the importance
and prestige of Doi Suthep is the palatial Bhubing Palace,
a vacation home of the Royal Family. When not serving as the
Royal Residence, the Bhubing Palace serves as a guest house
for foreign dignitaries. Built in 1961, the Palace’s
first guests were the King and Queen of Denmark. Visitors
to the park can also pay a visit to the small hill tribe villages
on the park grounds, which offer a glimpse into a way of life
that has changed very little in a thousand years.
Doi Suthep National Park is located a short distance from
the city center and is easily reached by car or motorbike.
Hiring a motorbike (100 or 125 cc) for the journey is a great
way to appreciate the serene majesty of the park’s forests
and mountains. If driving yourself isn’t your thing,
you can always take a song thaew (taxi truck) to the top or
book a tour through your hotel or a tour company. There are
a number of small restaurants scattered around throughout
the park, especially near Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, and there
are a few options for those who wish to stay overnight. Most
of the accommodation consists of small huts and rudimentary
bungalows, however, and most of the park’s highlights
can be easily seen in a day.
Doi Suthep Topography and Climate
While not as lofty and rugged as Doi Inthanon, Doi Suthep
still offers plenty of natural beauty. The road to the top
meanders through verdant forests, runs along clear streams
and flirts with mighty waterfalls, passing by a number of
attractions along the way. The landscape of Doi Suthep is
marked by rolling hills covered in thick tropical forest,
which gives way to evergreens as you climb higher and higher.
The highest peak in the park is Doi Pui, which reaches a height
of 1,685 meters (5,528 feet), while Doi Suthep itself reaches
an altitude of 1,676 meters (5,498 feet) and Wat Phra That
Doi Suthep stands on the flank of the mountain at an elevation
of 1,056 meters (3464 feet). Doi Suthep National Park boasts
a number of highly enjoyable and easily accessible waterfalls,
cascades of foaming water plunging from a series of cliffs
and forming glistening pools along the way. The most popular
of these waterfalls is Huay Kaew falls, which can be found
just off the road near the entrance of the park. This lovely
waterfall is an excellent place for a picnic before or after
climbing the mountain to see the sights above. A little farther
up the road, towards the temple, lies the Monthathan waterfall,
which flows down over nine tiers and is another popular picnic
spot, well worth the 300 baht admission. With a good deal
of the park 1,000 meters or more above sea level, Doi Suthep
National Park enjoys a climate that is distinctly cooler than
the basin of Chiang Mai. During the hot season (April-June)
average temperatures run around 20-23? C (68-73? F), while
during the cool season (mid-December-late March)the mercury
can drop as low as 6?C (49?F). Rainfall is pretty much a given
during the rainy season (July to mid-November) and the view
from the top is usually obscured. During the hot months from
March to June the shade of the trees and the coolness of the
waterfalls are blissful oases from the sweltering city heat.
Doi Suthep Flora and Fauna
Doi Suthep is a flourishing forest ecosystem, consisting
of mixed deciduous forests (trees that lose their leaves in
the dry season) at lower elevations and tropical evergreen
forests above 1000 meters. Mixed in among the trees are countless
flowers that scent the air and delight the eye with their
brilliant colors. Inhabiting this bountiful biosphere are
a number of animal species, mostly birds and small mammals.
Macaques are the most common primates but other species of
small monkey can be glimpsed cavorting among the treetops.
Wild boar tramp game trails in the park’s deep interior
and dozens of varieties of bats fill the skies at dawn and
dusk. The park is also one of four places in Thailand that
are called home by the rare Crocodile Salamander. Like the
nearby Doi Inthanon National Park, Doi Suthep is a wonderful
place for bird watching and the park is home to over three
hundred species. Dawn is the best time to lie in wait with
your binoculars and camera and play Audubon Society.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
A Thai saying goes, “If you haven’t tasted Khao
Soi or seen the view from Doi Suthep, you haven’t been
to Chiang Mai.” The mountain’s temple is one of
the most historically and spiritually significant places in
Thailand and, as such, large numbers of Thais and foreigners
alike come to experience the special magic of Doi Suthep.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is an impressive embodiment of the
Lanna (northern Thai) culture and is a symbol deeply cherished
by the people of Chiang Mai. The legend surrounding the founding
of the temple is one of those mysteries of Asia that draw
so many visitors to this mystical land. The temple’s
origins date back almost seven hundred years, to 1382. Legend
has it that in this year a monk saw a vision of a flame. Following
it, he found a relic of the Lord Buddha. The details of this
relic have become obscured by the mists of time; the most
common tale is that it was a glowing bone from the Buddha
himself. The monk took this relic to his king, but the king’s
lack of piety meant that the relic’s magic failed to
work for him. Losing interest, the king sent the monk away.
At this time King Keu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom had heard
about the relic and invited the monk to his city. The relic’s
power worked for the faithful King Keu Naone and he offered
to enshrine it. The Chedi at Wat Suan Dok was built to house
the relic and all the preparations were made; but when the
time came to place the relic in the Chedi it broke in two.
King Keu Naone then made a decision. He placed half of the
relic in the Chedi and placed the other half on the back of
a sacred white elephant. The elephant was then taken to the
northern gate of the city, now called Chang Puak, or “White
Elephant Gate”, and allowed to go where it would. The
holy best headed due west into the wilderness and began to
climb Doi Suthep. Halfway up, the creature suddenly stopped,
trumpeted three times, turned three times in a circle and
then kneeled down and died. The temple was raised on the very
spot where the elephant died and there it stands to this day.
All legends and mysticism aside, the temple is a great example
of the grandeur and power of the Lanna Kingdom and a visit
to the spot is an absolute must for any visitor to Chiang
Mai. Over three hundred steps lead from the parking area to
the temple grounds, bordered by the longest Naga balustrade
in Thailand. Nagas are sacred water serpents which bring good
luck as well as bridging the earth and sky. After three hundred-odd
steps, you may well feel like you’ve climbed to the vault
of heaven, but don’t despair-there are a few food stalls
set up at the top to replenish your energy. If the climb sounds
like no fun, then simply ride to the top in one of the newly
rebuilt cable cars (40 baht). Once you’ve reached the
top there’s plenty to see at the temple. Of course, the
golden Chedi dominates the area with its gilded, 24 meter
(79 foot) tall bulk. Ceremonial umbrellas were added at the
four corners of the Chedi in the 16th century and pilgrims
make merit by sticking gold leaf to the umbrella shafts. At
the rear of the temple a long promenade provides a spectacular
view; the city spreads out below, bisected by the ribbon of
the Ping River. Make sure to take your camera to capture this
unforgettable vista. Scattered around the temple are various
statues depicting everything from the legendary white elephant,
upon whose grave the temple was erected, to the assorted gods
and Buddhas of the Thai religion. You will find a particularly
interesting rendering of the Buddha beneath the spreading
limbs a Bodhi tree, known as the Tree of Enlightenment, on
your right hand side, just as you enter the temple grounds.
Another highlight of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the set of
temple bells (rakhang in Thai) which are touched by devout
Buddhists to bring good luck. While at the temple, walk around
and examine the numerous impressive murals which decorate
many of the temple walls. As in most wats (temples) the murals
depict events from the life and teachings of the Buddha. If
you find yourself curious about the meanings and practices
of Buddhism then pay a visit to the International Buddhism
Center. Here you will find monks and lay practitioners who
will be happy to answer any questions you might have. For
those interested in truly exploring the teachings and practice
of Buddhism there are meditation and study courses offered
by the center.
Other Doi Suthep Attractions
Today Doi Suthep is easily accessible to visitors, but it
wasn’t always so. The road to the top wasn’t built
until 1935 and the man responsible for its construction was
a highly respected figure named Khruba Srivichai, also known
as “The Engineer Monk.” Prior to his intervention
it was a grueling five hour climb to reach the temple. In
order to make it easier for pilgrims to reach the temple and
make merit, Khruba Srivichai decided to build a road to the
top. His call for workers was answered by hordes volunteers
from all over the north. Finding himself with a wealth of
laborers, he ordered that each village’s workers should
only construct 10 feet of road. Fuelled by devotion, the workers
completed the road in record time. A monument to Khruba Srivichai
stands at the foot of the mountains. Before you head to the
temple, stop and give thanks that you don’t have to walk.
Although the temple is the main destination for most people
who visit Doi Suthep, it’s not the only reason to visit
the park. A little ways beyond the temple you will find the
Bhubing Palace, a favorite vacation home for the Thai Royal
Family. The Palace is open to the public most of the year,
except when the Royal Family is in residence (usually mid-December
to early February). When the Palace is open, visitors are
welcome to stroll the grounds and admire the exquisite gardens
where the blooming flowers create explosions of color. The
flowers aren’t the only colorful things on Doi Suthep;
the park is home to a number of small hill tribe villages
that continue to live very much in the same way as they have
done for a thousand years. The largest of these villages is
located a short distance beyond the Bhubing Palace. Although
this village is somewhat commercialized it is still worth
a look, especially if you are pressed for time and can’t
make it to the more remote (and more authentic) villages.
Doi Suthep Travel Information
Although most hotels and tour companies offer day trips to
Doi Suthep, many people find it a more rewarding experience
to explore the mountain on their own. A 100 or 125 cc motorbike
is more than sufficient for the ascent, which is a pleasantly
meandering journey through lush rainforests and along clear
streams. From Chiang Mai take route 1004 northwest. The entrance
to the National Park is located about 15 km (9 miles) from
the city center and the drive to the top of the mountain from
the entrance takes about 20 minutes. If you don’t want
to take a motorbike then song thaews (red taxis) are your
best option. Song thaews regularly run from Chang Puak market
and the journey from there should cost about 150 baht. A cheaper
alternative is to make your way along Huay Kaew Road to the
entrance of Chiang Mai University. Song thaews from here will
ferry you to the temple for only 30 baht (one-way) but the
taxi won’t leave until there are six or more people.
The temple is open from 06:00 to 20:00 every day but weekends
and holidays are usually very crowded. Admission is 50 baht,
which includes a two-way ticket on the tram. Hearty souls
who chose to walk up the staircase are rewarded for their
fortitude by only paying 30 baht. Remember that Wat Phra That
Doi Suthep is a sacred place and you should dress respectfully
when visiting it. That means no shorts or skirts and no tank
tops. Don’t worry if you find yourself at the gate wearing
cut-offs, fisherman’s pants can be rented for a minimal
fee. Most of the other attractions at the park are free, but
there is a 300 baht fee for the Monthathan waterfall. There
are some bungalows and rudimentary guest houses in Doi Suthep
National Park but there’s really no need to stay overnight;
it’s not like Doi Suthep is a long way from the city.
There are plenty of rustic restaurants scattered all over
the park but the prices are about ten baht higher than in
the city. Shoppers will find a few stalls offering souvenirs
and knick knacks and the Hmong villages offer traditional
clothing and handicrafts.. |
